Discovery, Recognition and Enthronement of the 14th Dalai Lama, compiled by Khemey Sonam Wangdu, Sir Basil J. Gould and Hugh E. Richardson. Published by Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, Dharamsala, India and distributed by Paljor Publications, New Delhi, India. The book can also be purchased by visiting www.tibetgift.com

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Death of the Thirteenth Dalai Lama and Appointment of a Regent

 

From the time the Thirteenth Dalai Lama, Thubten Gyatso ascended the throne, he contributed a great deal in promoting Buddhism, strengthening the political arena, improving the life of his people, maintaining the status of Tibet as an independent nation and so forth. Although this account cannot include them all, I would like to relate a few incidents when he clearly predicted certain events which were to come true in the future.

In 1920, when repair work was underway in the eastern wing of the Potala, the Dalai Lama very carefully instructed the artists to paint a blue bird on the wall of the stairs to the north of the West Chamber and a white dragon on the wall to the east. All the knowledgeable people gathered there, including the mural master, were somewhat perplexed by the instruction, which made no sense to them either historically or scripturally. The symbolism became clear in later years; the blue bird indicated that he would pass away in the Water Bird Year, while the white dragon to the east pointed to the year of the Fourteenth Dalai Lama’s enthronement in the Iron Dragon Year. Then, in the Water Monkey Year, in response to a long life puja offered by the monks of the three principal monasteries and the monk and lay government officials, he addressed them as follows:

I was first recognized and enthroned as the Supreme Liberator of the World in accordance with clear prophecies and portents, making it unnecessary to follow the practice of the golden urn ceremony. Then, according to tradition, I studied under holy tutors, notably Regent Ta-tsag Hotoktu and Khenchen Yongzin Phurchog Rinpoche. I memorized daily the religious texts, including the liturgical chants. I received the primary and secondary monastic ordinations and practiced the debate on the Five Major Treatises of Buddhism. Besides, I received empowerments and instructions in the profound Sutra. Working hard daily, without interruption, in accordance with my intellectual capacity, I presume to have achieved a considerable level of scholarship.

However, when I reached the age of 18, the political responsibility of Tibet fell on me. Although I lacked spiritual and political experience, I took the responsibility at the unanimous request of the clerics and laity of Tibet and upon the counsel of the Heaven mandated Emperor. Since then, I have had no freedom for personal leisure. With my mind weighed down day and night under the heavy responsibility for our religious and political wellbeing, I have been striving hard, honestly and to the best of my ability to advance the cause of Buddhism, to strengthen our political system, and to promote the welfare and happiness of my subjects.

When the British army attacked Tibet in the Wood Dragon Year, I thought that it would be an act of undoing past deeds if I appeased them for my personal wellbeing and thus undermined our ultimate political interests. Knowing that it had been worthwhile to come to the help of each other (Tibet and the Manchus) ever since the priest-patron relationship was established between the Fifth Dalai Lama and the Manchu Emperor, I braved the hardships of travelling over the northern plains of Tibet and through Mongolian and Chinese towns to go to the Golden Chinese Capital of Peking and to talk about our immediate and long

term problems. The Emperor and the Dowager Empress received me with great respect and honor. Before long, the Emperor and the Dowager Empress passed away one after the other. Huan Tung was installed as the new Emperor. Having related the conditions of Tibet in detail to him and his father, I returned home with the interest of Tibet in my heart.

On my return, I discovered that the Amban had poisoned the Emperor’s ears, as a result of which the Chinese army, led by General Chao Erfang, reached Tibet with an intent to seize political power. I, the sovereign, and my ministers, who held the political power, made for the Arya Land of India. Enduring all the hardships of the journey, we reached there safely and protested persistently to the Chinese government through the British government. We also performed intermittent ritual prayers for our religious and political causes. Thus, due to the unfailing power of the profound truth of karmic law, the civil war in China altered the situation and its forces and commanders, having become like a reservoir cut off from its source, were thrown out. And, I returned to Tibet, the land of my rule.

From the Water Ox to the Water Monkey Year, a new era of glorious and complete happiness prevailed in Tibet. People, high and low, enjoyed happiness in peace. Since this is well documented and well known to all the clerics and laity, it would only lead to verbal excess to relate this in detail. Thus, I mention this only briefly. You all must feel grateful and contented. It is possible that my act of shouldering the political responsibility has brought benefit. If this has happened, it is my aim and I am contented. I will neither boast about it, nor do I expect recognition even the size of a sesame seed.

Considering my advanced age now, I feel a strong inclination to abdicate spiritual and political power in order to dedicate the last phase of my life completely to spiritual practice so that I will have a virtuous support in my long journey through future lives. But, I don’t have the heart to ignore the genuine trust placed in me by the protector deities, who have associated themselves with me as a shadow does a body, by my refuge lamas, and by my subjects, high and low, who have had spiritual and mundane relationships with me. I, therefore, continue to make the most of my knowledge and ability to shoulder the responsibility. However, I am now nearing fifty-eight and everyone must know that I will not be around for long to shoulder the spiritual and political responsibilities.

Therefore, you must foster a harmonious relationship with the militarily

powerful neighboring countries of India and China. Efficient and well

armed troops must be deployed on contentious, minor borders. These troops must be well trained to repel invasions from other sides. Furthermore, the five degenerations are spreading these days. More particularly, the communist system is spreading widely. The recognition of Jetsun Dampa is banned. The monastic properties are confiscated and monks are inducted into the army. Buddhism is being wiped out. We continue to hear such stories from Da-khurel (Ulan Bator).

It is certain that Tibet, a land which combines spiritual and secular values, will face a similar problem from both within and outside. If we are unable to defend our land under such a circumstance, then all the realized holders of the dharma, including the Victorious Father and son (the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama), will be eliminated without a vestige and the properties and traditions of the reincarnate lamas and monasteries will be lost. Moreover, our political system, as founded by the Three Dharma Kings, will be relegated to an empty name. The government officials of Tibet will .be deprived of their inheritance and properties, and enslaved by the enemy. ‘the people of Tibet will be subjected to so much suffering that they will not be able to endure the day and night. Such a time will certainly come.

Therefore, it is necessary to work unerringly for the common cause of Tibet’s spiritual and political systems. Presently, we are enjoying happiness, which is the envy of others. It is up to the monk and lay officials to use this opportunity to work unremittingly to strengthen our political system so that we have no regrets later and remain prepared to face the challenges of the future both diplomatically and militarily. It is the duty of high and low clerics and laity and all the subjects of Tibet to exercise consideration and work “ unerringly in unity, for our common cause. To do so without deviation is in accord with the prediction of the chief Guardian Deity, who said, “There will be no cause for anxiety and fear as long as all the people fulfil their duties according to the wishes of the

Spiritual Master Meaningful to Behold (the Dalai Lama).” This is true.

I, on my part, will offer protection and help to all those who work with dedication and honesty for the common spiritual and political cause of Tibet. They will be blessed with success in their endeavors while the unscrupulous ones will meet with failure and punitive consequences. It is evident that the blessing of long term success does not come to those who indulge in selfish, partisan and sycophantic acts for short term goals and ignore the collective spiritual and political well being. And, it is pointless to regret it later. I can see that Tibet’s present well being will endure as long as I am alive. But ultimately, as I stated earlier, you will suffer the consequences of your individual actions. This is the clearest guidance I can give you from my experience and reasoning. I cannot give more comprehensive advice to anyone else. You perform many external prayer rituals for my long life. The most important thing is the inner ritual prayer, which is to keep my words in your hearts and devote yourself to the common cause of Tibet with repentance for past mistakes. If you do this, I will also do my utmost to further the cause of our religious and secular polity for as long as I live. Similarly, I shall help the officials as per their positions and performance while making efforts to secure happiness for my subjects for a hundred years. There is no greater ritual prayer than this.

This is all I have to say in response to your united request for advice. Day and night, in the course of your four activities, you must think seriously on this advice and act accordingly without deviating from this. This is important.

 

In this address, the Dalai Lama clearly predicted the future of Tibet. Then on the thirtieth day of the tenth month of the Water Bird Year (1933), he passed away at the age of fifty-eight in order to demonstrate the truth of impermanence, leaving the entire nation in deep grief.

The National Assembly then convened in the presence of the prime minister and his cabinet, to discuss matters related to the administration of national affairs. After several rounds of discussion it was decided to select three high ranking lamas, Gaden Tripa Mi-nyag Ami, Reting Rinpoche and Phurchog Rinpoche, as candidates to be regent. This was to be decided by means of conducting zantag-lot in front of the Avalokiteshvara statue in the Potala palace. The divination selected Reting Hotoktu, but the then prime minister, Langdun Gung Kunga Wangchug continued in office to assist the regent.

 

 

Starting the Search

 

Various signs were witnessed that clearly indicated the reincarnation would be born in north-eastern Tibet. For instance, the Thirteenth Dalai Lama’s body which was placed facing south, spontaneously turned its face towards the east more than once; the state oracles Nechung Chogyal Chenmo, Gadong Neysrung Chenmo, Samye Nojin Chenpo and others turned twice towards the east while in trance and paid homage by offering scarves; clouds formed into various auspicious shapes on the north

east horizon; snapdragons bloomed underneath the stairs in the east of the discourse arena; and fungi shaped like stars and antlers grew from underneath the stone plinth of the wooden column in the northeast of the shrine where the memorial stupa of the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama was under construction.

Among his many responsibilities, Regent Reting treated the search for the next incarnation as the most urgent. He went to Lake Lhamo Latso in Chokhor-gyal in 1935 (the Wood Pig Year) to perform an intensive sadhana with his party for several days. This lake is located ten days journey south-east of Lhasa and is very popular among the devotees of the goddess, as one’s future can be seen in the lake’s surface. The Second Dalai Lama consecrated the lake following his pure vision and declared that it embodied the life force of the Goddess Rimati. When the search for the Thirteenth Dalai Lama was underway, detailed information about him appeared in this lake: the house in which he was born and so forth. Indeed a lake of great blessing.

At the conclusion of his sadhana, the regent saw in the lake three groups of dbu can letters, “A”, “KA” and “MA”. He also saw a three-storied monastery, with its second floor in a turquoise color and the rooftop adorned with rgya phib in golden color; and a threadlike path leading towards the east from the monastery reaching up to the foot of a hill where there was a one storied house with a blue roof. The regent noted down all these visions in writing, keeping the information confidential.

All these indications led to the decision to form search teams to journey to various regions in eastern Tibet. As a result, high ranking lamas and trulkus from Sera, Gaden and Drepung consulted the state oracle Nechung for instructions and three search teams, each consisting of four members, were formed.

The regions of the south-east and Dagpo were assigned to Phurchog Jamgon Rinpoche who was accompanied by Tsedrung Thubten Jangchub, Changkhyim Thubten Tsephel and Shodrung Phunrabpa. Serje Hardong Khangser Rinpoche drew Chamdo and the Dokham area with Tsedon Tenpa Jungney, Tsedrung Laytsen Tsultrim Chophel and Shodrung Laytsen Driyulpa in attendance. Serje Hardong Kewtsang Rinpoche led the party of which I was a member; with Nagchu Khenpo Tsedrung Khenrab Tenzin and Tsedrung Lobsang’I’sewang. We were sent to A-rig and other regions of Amdo in the north-east.

The Samye protector deity, while in a trance, gave the cabinet ministers a ritual mirror to be used for testing the candidates. However, the deity, as was often the case, gave no clear indication which team should be given the mirror. So, the regent instructed the Samye based Zasag Gyaltsen Phuntsog and Teji Shenkhawa to call on the deity for clarification. The deity told them to send the mirror with the team led by Kewtsang Rinpoche- the team to which I belonged. The other objects for testing the candidates included: His Holiness the Thirteenth Dalai Lama’s yellow and black rosary, his small ivory damaru which had been used to call his attendants, and his walking stick made from cane. Also included was a copy of the confidential account of the Regent’s lake vision and his introductory letters to the then Panchen Lama, Governor Ma, the head lama of Kumbum, and monastery administrators and civil officials in those regions.

 

The journey to Amdo

 

Our journey in search of the new reincarnation was to begin on the fifth day of the ninth month of Fire Rat Year (1936). The night before we left there was an unreasonably heavy snowfall and next morning when I went to seek blessings at the Jokhang, I noticed knee deep snows on the road. At about nine in the morning all the team members gathered at Kewtsang Rinpoche’s residence, Daring House, and we began our journey from there. It was a fine, sunny day with clear skies and the previous day’s snow had already melted, making the road clear and easy to travel on. In fact it was the most wonderful day we had ever experienced. Our journey took us through Dromtod, Chakri Tramo and other regions, reaching Nagchu, where we stayed for ten days to arrange provisions and organize pack animals. From Nagchu we traveled via Sog-tsandan monastery, Malazhi and Khyungpo Tengchen to reach Riwoche. Except for a few barren mountainous areas, the landscape we passed through was mostly lush green, with beautiful meadows and passes. A high pass ahead to cross the next day would almost certainly herald a heavy snowfall to welcome us throughout the night and continuing until we reached our next stopover. However nothing happened to threaten our lives, although I suffered from frostbite in my leg, a condition which still affects me to this day in cold weather. To encounter snow is a good omen and these heavy snowfalls on our way were seen as an indication that our team would succeed in discovering the reincarnation and be able to escort him to his palace in Lhasa, the Potala Palace.

We were a little hesitant to travel beyond Riwoche, as a short time ago there had been encounters between Tibetans and the Upper Zilings on the Tibetan Chinese border at Keygudo. To clarify the situation, we sent a letter to the Panchen Rinpoche, who was then staying at Keygudo. While Kewtsang Rinpoche arid my other team members were at Riwoche, I went to Chamdo to seek advice from the two governors there, one of them being my brother Surkhang Surpa Wangchen Tseten.

After a month’s stay at Riwoche, we continued our journey, following Panchen Rinpoche’s advice. We traveled via Chaksamkha, Shoda and Nangchen reaching Keygudo on the twenty-ninth day of the twelfth month. On the second day of the new year (Fire Ox), we called on Panchen Rinpoche at his chamber and presented him the regent’s introductory letter and new year gifts. During our meeting, he said, “It is the most urgent matter to discover His Holiness’ reincarnation. While in Kumbum I have examined several children and found three possible candidates, who possess all the good characteristics.” He then gave Kewtsang Rinpoche a list of the three candidates. Later on we met Panchen’s chief attendant at his residence, where he conveyed to us the Panchen Rinpoche’s advice concerning the fact that we were the responsible persons specially delegated for that mission and that we should not just rely on the list he had given to us, but should make a thorough search in the regions both far and near. He deputed Tsechogling Trulku and Ngulchu Trulku to help us in our work and Tedhing Las-tsenpa to guide us on our journey. He also promised us a supply of additional pack animals saying, “Soon there will be caravans arriving here and you can join them on their way back to Ziling.”

The arrival of the caravans was considerably delayed due to heavy snowfalls but immediately they arrived, we sent a group of servants ahead as the advance party and in the third month we left Keygudo, travelling via Ra-nyag monastery, Lab monastery and the adjacent regions of Tongkhor. Most of this region is barren desert with no inhabitants so we had to pitch our tents at every stopover. In this way we traveled for the next twenty days, eventually reaching Tongkhor-khar, where Chieftain Tseling Dechang of Ziling and several other Tibetan businessmen, in all fifteen horsemen, came to receive us. We spent the night there. On the lush green plains of Chunag, the monastic authorities of Kumbum received us in a big tent and offered us tea, rice and white scarves. There were representatives from eight monasteries and eighty estates, and over 60 horsemen were present to receive us. Amidst this grand mounted procession, we proceeded to Kumbum Jampaling monastery arriving on tenth day of the fourth month of Fire Ox Year. As soon as we arrived, the white clouds in the sky formed various auspicious shapes and sent down light showers a fortunate sign. When I saw the monastery and its architecture, an unusual feeling of joy and hope thrilled through me. I said to myself, “Most probably this is the monastery our regent saw reflected in Lake Lhamo Latso. Maybe we will have the good fortune of discovering the reincarnation.” At Kumbum, all the team members stayed separately at different estates: Kewtsang Rinpoche in Chesho estate, myself at Aja-si, Tsechogling Trulku at Serti, and Ngulchu Trulku at Mi-nyag estate.

Kumbum, in its remote past, was a land of nomads and it was in one of those nomad families that Lord Tsongkhapa took birth. Kumbum monastery is known for its sandalwood tree, which is said to have grown out of the blood spilled and absorbed into the soil at the time of Tsongkhapa’s birth, and for the stupa of one hundred thousand Manjushri images. A new sandalwood tree had branched off from the main tree in front of the stupa, its leaves and branches imprinted with the seed syllables and images of Lord Tsongkhapa. With its unique image of the protector deity Chogyal, known as gsung byon ma, meaning the image that speaks, and the four corners of the monastery naturally resembling the “Four places of power”, this monastic complex is no less blessed than the Lumbini garden, Buddha Shakyamuni’s birthplace. The Third Dalai Lama blessed and named the monastery Kumbum Jampaling. In addition, a line of Dalai Lamas, such as the Great Fifth, Seventh and the Thirteenth Dalai Lama have visited and blessed this monastery. The monastery housed about 3, 500 monks, studying scriptures and practicing meditation in the four departments specializing in dialectics, tantra, Kalacakra and medicine. The monks were also proficient in religious ceremonies and tantric rituals, as they generally conduct such rituals either in the common assembly hall or in their respective departments on all the important religious days.

The offerings of about twenty different butter sculptures exhibited in the forecourt of the monastery, during the Monlam festival, spoke of the monks’ skill and talent in religious arts and sculpture. Two of the sculptures, which depicted the life of Buddha according to the Avadanashataka, were of special attraction- i.e. the ones created by the monks from first grade prajnaparamita classes of Gomang and Sera Jetsun commentary.

With the help of Panchen Lama’s representative in Ziling, Amdo Aku Tsondu, who was a very knowledgeable man, we applied for an appointment with the Governor Ma. I do not remember the exact date, but I think it was in the fifth month that we went to Ziling, staying at Amdo Aku Tsondu’ residence. There was no reply from the governor for the next three days. On the fourth day, an official came with a reply, which said that our appointment had been scheduled for two days time. Pretending as if he was giving us his personal advice, the officer said that we should bring along whatever gifts we had for the governor.

Our gifts included a great variety of items, such as brocades, woolen goods, incense, antlers, musk, and leather. We gathered the Tibetan business people based at Ziling and with each one holding a different gift, we moved in a procession passing through the street and finally reaching the Yamon, the governor’s secretariat. While we were in his waiting room, an alarm bell suddenly rang and all the Chinese present, in and outside the waiting room, left one after the other, leaving us alone. The alarm had in fact been to warn the people that a Japanese aircraft was soaring overhead, as those were the days when there was a clash between China and Japan. In reality no such aircraft came that day. After a while, all the Chinese came back to their respective places. Then came our turn to see the Governor. We presented him the regent’s introductory letter and the gifts, explaining to him in detail the purpose of our coming to Ziling. He greeted us with tea, fruits and several other tidbits and expressed his felicitations on our safe arrival, before commenting that all communication with him should be done through his officer Hru-zhang. The next day, we met Hru-zhang and four other officers of Ting-zhang rank and presented them our gifts.

Back at Kumbum, we met the monastic authorities and other high ranking lamas and reincarnated lamas and presented them the regent’s introductory letters along with our offerings.

 

Search and Discovery

 

Then the real search began. Each member was to go to different regions and make their search. Kewtsang Rinpoche carried out his search in the area including Ja-khyung, Ra-khog and Kumbum with its six sub-regions; I made my search in Ziling, Khyamru and Kangtsa, and Venerable Khenrab Tenzin and Lobsang Tsewang were assigned to the Par) Choten, Than-gon, Shaman Taklung, and Rabgyal. We continued our search in our respective regions for a period of about two and a half months. Throughout my search I found only a few boys, who according to their parents, were born with various auspicious dreams and signs, such as a rainbow over their respective dwelling places. In fact none of these boys proved very convincing. It was same with the other team members. In their searches they had come across twelve boys who could be taken into consideration. Those in Panchen Rinpoche’s list were: the boy born in Chija Taktser (the present Dalai Lama), the nephew of Lonpa Loyer (he was said to have reached for the Panchen Lama’s rosary and pulled it hard during the Kalacakra initiation), the third candidate was the son of Drotsa Nangso (also known as Di-tsa Nangso), but he had died by the time we reached Ziling. To examine the remaining two candidates, Kewtsang Rinpoche and his entourage set out for Taktser that winter in disguise and without telling anybody. Kewtsang Rinpoche traveled under the guise of a servant, with a rosary of the late Dalai Lama around his neck, while Venerable Lobsang Tsewang dressed more splendidly and pretended to be the master. Setronpa Kalsang, the interpreter, and Kewtsang Gelong Tsultrim Gyaltsen dressed as wanderers and pretended to be pilgrims on their way to hermitages in Tsongkha. On arrival at Taktser, they asked for accommodation at Chija Taktser House. They received a warn welcome and a special inner room was assigned to the Venerable Lobsang Tsewang and a mote ordinary room to Kewtsang Rinpoche and his two colleagues. At that time, the young boy, who was going to be the future Dalai Lama, walked up to Kewtsang Rinpoche with an expression of joy on his face. He pulled the rosary Kewtsang Rinpoche wore around his neck and said, “give me this!”

 “Tell me who I am and then I will give this to you,” replied Kewtsang Rinpoche.

“You are an Aka from Sera. Mani, Mani” the boy replied, spontaneously.

“Who is the man in the inner room?” asked Kewtsang Rinpoche and the boy replied, “Tsedrung Lobsang!”

Then he pointed his finger to the interpreter and said, “Kalsang!” and then to Kewtsang Gelong Tsulgyan, saying “The Aka from Sera” He gave all this information spontaneously, without any hesitation or doubt. The team members stayed there overnight and closely examined the boy’s behavior. During most of that time he stayed with Kewtsang Rinpoche maintaining the expression of great joy on his face, gazing at and holding the rosary over and over again. So confident was his behavior and speech that the team members were simply amazed. The next morning, when they were about to leave, he cried out from his bed and begged to accompany them, making the parting emotionally unbearable.

The day Kewtsang Rinpoche and his entourage left for Taktser, the Venerable Khenrab Tenzin and I went to the house of Lonpa Loyer’s nephew, carrying a rosary of the late Dalai Lama. It was morning when we arrived and his family agreed to accommodate us in the way we requested. After we had made some tea and rested for a while, we asked the family if they had a boy with certain auspicious signs. “Yes, we have a child daring enough even to touch the Panchen Lama’s rosary” said his mother. Then they brought the boy to us, clad in a set of new clothes but he was too shy even to come near us. Thinking that the rosary might attract his attention a bit, the Venerable Khenrab Tenzin took out the rosary, put it around his own head and called the boy, saying “Come here.” There was no sign of the boy taking a fancy to it and he remained just as shy as before. Nothing came out of this test.

By telegram, we submitted to our government a confidential report of the names and the family backgrounds of the two candidates nominated by the Panchen Lama and the twelve discovered by us during our search. We asked our government whether or not we should carry on with our tests and show the objects from the late Dalai s belongings. The reply came after three days. It suggested that government was very hopeful of the boy at Chija Taktser and that we should closely examine him by showing him the objects.

Soon after that, all the team members set out for Taktser without ig anybody. On our way, we encountered several auspicious signs, s people carrying barrels filled with curd, milk and water. As soon we arrived there, the sounds of a conch shell calling the monks to assembly blared from atop the Kumbum monastery- a very auspicious coincidence! Another favorable incident was our meeting with a young se man on a low-lying pass close to the boy’s house. It was the point where the road forked into two- one road leading up the pass and her one down. That Chinese man was travelling with his three donkeys all loaded with firewood. He suggested that we take the road g down the pass. We followed his suggestion, and to our surprise we soon in lush green fields next to the front door of the boy’s house. It is said that the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama on his way to visit Tsongkha-tage stopped here for a short while and that on seeing Chija Taktser he said “a nice house!” just as we entered the boy’s house, we heard a cuckoo singing, which was the first cuckoo we were hearing that spring. Perhaps the Chinese man whom we met on the way was a manifestation protector deity appeared in that form to guide us. The other path was in fact a short cut to the house, but led to its back door.

We arrived as the evening tea was served. The house was located middle of a lush green plain and had a lofty prayer banner in the le of its courtyard. It was a single story flat with a slab roof and in a turquoise color. Nearby the house were fields bright with shoots; there were hills to its right and forests to the left. The n of the house reminded me of the regent’s lake vision, described one-page lake vision account. “This is it”, I said to myself. The father had gone to the water mill, but his mother received us and is tea and cookies. The boy was then two years old. He appeared wearing a jump-suit and had an expression of joy on his face. His mannerisms suggested a personality, which was extraordinarily profound for his age.

After tea we asked permission to begin our test. We spread all the from the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama’s belongings (each with a similar article beside it) on a long table on the middle of a raised platform in his bedroom. The raised platform somewhat resembled a throne, but it was a common device in that region to keep the room warm by lighting a fire under it. Kewtsang Rinpoche with the Venerable Khenrab Tenzin next to him sat to the right of the table, while the Venerable Lobsang Tsewang and I were to the left. Then, Kewtsang Rinpoche picked up the authentic black rosary along with the copy in his hands and asked the boy, “Which one do you want?” He grabbed at the real one and placed it around his neck. In the same way he chose the correct one when we presented him with both the yellow rosaries. Then we offered him the two walking sticks and after pausing for a while and looking carefully at both the canes he picked up the wrong one. I was a little worried on seeing this and thought “There he was mistaken, although he was successful in the first two rounds of the test.” Again he looked closely at both walking sticks examining the handle and the tip of each with concentration. Then he put the wrong one back to the table and picked up the Dalai Lama’s, holding it straight with its tip to the floor. Both these sticks were of the same design, except that one had a bronze tip and the other a plain iron. In actual fact, the one which was then considered the wrong choice had belonged to the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama, who had later presented it to the previous Drubkhang and the latter gave it to Kewtsang Rinpoche. That explained why the child picked it up at the beginning of his test. He also correctly identified three quilts. I watched with increasing rapture at the result of each test. Still there was one more test to undergo. At this stage, he had to identify the ivory-made hand drum, which the late Dalai Lama had used as an instrument to call his attendants. Kewtsang Rinpoche displayed in front of him the drum and a beautiful ivory-made damaru adorned with a golden belt and brocade handle. I was a little worried, thinking that he might go for the damaru, which was far more attractive than the drum. Without any hesitation, he picked up the drum. Holding it in his right hand, he played it with a big smile on his face; moving around so that his eyes could look at each of us from close up. Thus, the boy demonstrated his occult powers, which were capable of revealing the most secret phenomena. We were so moved to see him performing such a miracle that it left us spellbound.

Then he gave us back the objects as we requested. After a while his father returned from the water mill and we spent the night there. During our conversation with his parents, we asked them questions such as: had there been any auspicious signs before or after his birth? The reply was always “No, nothing of that kind.” However, the local people had a great many things to tell us. According to them, they had suffered tremendous natural calamities whenever it was time for a great lama to take birth in their locality. They told us of quite a few misfortunes that had befallen them, including crop failures for the past four years; a series of deaths among the most valuable livestock of his family; and his father suffering a serious, prolonged sickness, which nearly took his life. However, according to them, his father had a miraculous recovery as soon as the boy was born. Also, they had witnessed many auspicious signs, such as a rainbow over the house and so forth.

That night none of us were able to sleep, even for a moment, as we turned over the miraculous performance of the boy in our minds.

When we were about to leave for Kumbum the next morning, the boy jumped out of bed and firmly insisted that he was going to accompany us. He was so adamant that his parents had to trick him to hold him back. Indeed, it would have been our pleasure to take him along, but that was impossible then. We had no choice but to part from him with heavy hearts, fondly looking back at him over our shoulders.

Two or three days later, the nephew of Lonpa Loyer (one of the Panchen Lama’s nominees) came to Loyer House in Kumbum monastery. With permission from his uncle, we went there to conduct the tests, but the child was too shy to touch any of the objects we displayed on a long table on the verandah. In fact, he was later recognized as the reincarnation of Trichen Kekya Trulku of Kumbum monastery and fell into Chinese Communist hands when the monastery was invaded.

Then, we sent our government a detailed report of the tests we had conducted on the two candidates and their results plus our plans to test the remaining candidates discovered during our search in areas around Ziling. We submitted this report in a coded telegram as well as by messenger on horseback. There was no reply for several months and just as we were planning to conduct further tests the reply came, both by coded telegram and a messenger on horseback. The reply read: “Based on the evidence, such as his miraculous performances in all the tests, the striking similarity between the architecture and location of his house and that in the regent’s lake vision, reinforced by the prophecies of lamas and deities, the government hereby declares Lhamo Dondub, born at early sunrise on the sixth day of gya month of the Wood Hog Year in the family of Chokyong Tsering and his wife Sonam Tsomo, to be the true reincarnation of the Thirteenth Dalai Lama. Therefore, every attempt should be made to escort him to the capital as soon as possible.”

However, this declaration had to be kept secret from the public, fearing that Governor Ma might manipulate the situation to establish his rule in Tibet, or else he might use it as an opportunity to extort excessive bribes to satisfy his greed. All the team members assembled in front of the thang ka of Goddess Palden Lhamo, brought by Kewtsang Rinpoche from the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama’s room in Norbulingka, and performed her invocation ritual. Then we jointly took an oath declaring every one of us would remain ever faithful to the commitment of keeping the government’s declaration strictly confidential, promising never to reveal a word of it. Also, we sent the government a coded message in which we had listed the following points:

·         that we had decided under oath not to make public even a word from the recent telegram which proclaimed the boy from Chija Taktser to be the real reincarnation, as we could foresee that if Governor Ma knew the content of the proclamation he would not allow the young Dalai Lama to accompany us.

·         that the government too should consider it crucial to keep its proclamation strictly confidential.

·         that tests of the remaining candidates would be conducted in order to prevent the local authorities from knowing the truth.

·         and that we were going to seek help from Governor Ma to invite all the remaining candidates to Kumbum monastery for the test, as that would save us the time taken to travel to each candidate’s region; it would also prevent people coming to know the details of the test procedure and the objects utilized.

Apart from those considerations, we advised our government: “As soon as we finish with our so called tests of the remaining candidates, the government will contact Governor Ma by telegram and persuade him to allow all the candidates, including the young Dalai Lama, to travel to Lhasa for further tests!”

 

Governor Mas Demands

 

All the team members called on Governor Main Ziling. During our meeting we told him that we had already tested two candidates from nearby locales who displayed promising signs. And we requested him to invite all the remaining candidates, whose tests were still to be carried out, to Kumbum monastery, explaining that going to their respective regions to conduct the tests would not only be a time-consuming process, but could also run the risk of the tests becoming public knowledge. He responded that he had no objection to inviting them to Ziling, but not to Kumbum monastery, which he thought was an inappropriate place for the tests to be conducted. He assured us that he and his people would not interfere in our procedures and would leave the tests entirely in our hands. In fact, it did not make much difference to us, because we knew that the whole process we were discussing with him was a subterfuge since our government had already proclaimed the true reincarnation. We readily agreed to his suggestion and set the date for our next meeting at Ziling.

On the appointed date, we went to the commissioner and asked if all the candidates had arrived and had the place where the tests were to be conducted been decided upon? He replied in the affirmative. “As for the test centre” he continued, “it is to be the Regional Government Headquarters, because there are so many candidates.” He then reassured us, repeating somewhat what the governor had said to us previously. “Since it is a purely religious matter, we have no intention of interfering in your test procedures. We will leave it entirely up to you to carry them out.” Accordingly, we went to the Government Headquarters the day after the next day carrying with us all the objects, both authentic and similar. Before we could begin our tests, the governor demanded that we show him the objects we would be using, as lie perhaps thought they might be extraordinarily amazing to look at. As we were aware that he was a wicked man who wielded much power, trying to raise objections would be to no advantage. Before we showed hum the objects, we did tell him that we had strict orders from our government not to display them unless all the team members were present. While reassuring us once again of the fact that he would not be interfering in our test procedures, he demanded, “You will allow me and some of my officers to watch the procedure, as this is something we have never seen before”. Actually, those four officials who accompanied him during the test were his blood relatives.

The time had arrived to begin our tests. We displayed all the objects on a long table in the middle of the room. Then we called the boys one after the other accompanied by one of their parents or relatives, depending on whoever was present, and showed them the objects. At the same, time, to dupe the governor and his retinue, Kewtsang Rinpoche examined their ears and tongues, as if he was reading the lines on them. Meanwhile Venerable Khenrab Tenzin and I acted as if we were noting down the results of his examinations. As soon as the test was over, we presented each of the parents with a roll of superfine woolen cloth and suggested they return home: In their tests, some children were wrong in half of their choices, while others were right in one and wrong in three. Yet a few others were wrong in all their choices or were too shy to make any decision. In fact, none of them proved worthy of any positive comment.

The governor asked afterwards if we had found any candidate convincing enough and what was the result of our tests. We told him: “We cannot say anything decisive at this stage. We will send a detailed report to our government by telegram, describing all that we have witnessed. It is in the hands of our government to make the final decision. However, before any final decision is reached, a long procedure has to be followed, such as collecting reports from the other regions, consulting the lamas and deities for their divinations and predictions and so forth. As soon as this procedure is over, the government will issue a bulletin, which will throw light on the questions, such as whether any candidate from this region has proved promising in his test. If the answer is yes, then the candidate should be called for further tests here, or should be escorted to Lhasa. We will call on you then and inform you of all the details.”

Back at Kumbum, we sent a detailed report by telegram to our government. Meanwhile, the governor twice invited some of the candidates such as the one from Taktser (i.e. the young Dalai Lama), Loyer and others, to his office. During these meetings, he gave them fruits and sweets and interviewed them. It is said that he advised that the boy from Taktser should be escorted to Kumbum monastery and kept there, as he found his behavior the most impressive of all.

The government’s reply to our report came both by telegram and by messenger on horseback. In its reply the government greatly appreciated what we had done to keep the government’s proclamation of the boy from Chija Taktser as the real incarnation confidential: “It has been a laudable deed that you have taken an oath not to make public the government’s proclamation. The government too, treats this as a confidential matter. The most urgent matter that lies ahead is to escort the young Dalai Lama to Lhasa at the earliest possible opportunity and every effort should be made to accomplish this.” Also it said that for the sake of the young Dalai Lama’s security we might announce that our government has short-listed the boy form Taktser and two from Lhasa for further tests in Lhasa.

Meanwhile, we arranged for an informal meeting with the head of the Taktser community, the Taktser Loyer, who was the paternal uncle of the young Dalai Lama. In fact, two reincarnations of the Taktser lineage had been born in the Chija Taktser house, the most recent being the young Dalai Lama’s eldest brother, Taktser Rinpoche. During this meeting, we told him that the government had short

listed the boy from Taktser as one of the candidates to be escorted to the capital for further tests and that we were soon going to meet the governor and arrange for his nephew’s journey to Lhasa. Also, we requested him to escort the boy to Kumbum monastery and take care of him, especially his cleanliness.

Then, we went to Ziling to meet the governor and ask permission for the boy and his parents to travel to Lhasa, telling him that our government had short-listed the boy for further tests there. There was no direct access to Governor Ma, we had to communicate through his commissioner. And there was no immediate reply. It came a few days later, but it posed a lot of questions demanding our answers such as “Why is it that the government has short-listed Lhamo Dondub only and not the others?” and so on. We answered all his questions very cautiously, according to the prevailing situation. We said, “Because Lhamo Dondub’s case proves somewhat in agreement with what was in the one-page description of the regent’s lake vision, but there are two similar candidates from Lhasa too.” We had to pursue the commissioner for several days for his response and finally he said, “His immediate travel to Lhasa will be possible only if you pay an amount of Dayang 100 000 in the name of the Provincial Government, the Provincial Bureau of Military Affairs, and the Central Monastic Administration of Kumbum.” We assured him that we would relay his decision to our government by telegram and left Ziling for Kumbum. From there, we sent an urgent telegram to our government, informing them of the governor’s decision. We requested our government to arrange for the money demanded by the governor and further money for our own subsistence.

Because of the governor’s decision, we thought we would be able to escort the young Dalai Lama to Lhasa that winter, so we informed Taktser Loyer. At the same time, Kewtsang Rinpoche secretly offered the young Dalai Lama the “life protection thread” made while he performed a long life puja. With the help of the Tibetans as well as the Mongols based in Ziling (who in fact were the monastery’s source of revenue), we secretly arranged for the required number of camels and the palanquin for his journey.

At that time, all men in Ziling under a certain age had received a military conscription notice from the Chinese authorities. The young Dalai Lama’s father also fell within this age limit and had been repeatedly called up. In order to get him exempted, we called on the governor and the commissioner with a variety of gifts, such as brocades, bolts of woolen cloth and so forth, and requested them to excuse him from having to join the army and cut his hair short. They eventually reluctantly agreed.

Soon after that we received the money from our government, and so we immediately went to Ziling and met the governor. It was hard to trust him, as he was a cunning man who could easily renege on what he had promised. It was perhaps because of him that the commissioner also appeared somewhat of a similar nature- unable to hold to his promises. In the hope of finding someone who could act as an intermediary between us and the governor, we went to his uncle, Zi-gyanma. It was he who had captured Gyurme Tseren, the chief of the Khadang Drashi Gyajong Regiment II, and LobsangYontan, the chief of the Cha dang zimpa Artillery Regiment,at Dan-khog during the Sino-Tibetan war in Water Monkey Year (1932). To our disappointment, he was away from home leading a regiment from Ziling in the then Sino

Japanese war. But we met his Tibetan wife, a daughter of the Mesh6d family, based at Keygudo, and found her to be very loyal to Tibet and fully devoted to the Buddha dharma. In addition she was an influential person in the Ziling area due to her husband’s position. She agreed to accompany us to the commissioner’s office as both interpreter and intermediary. So, we went to the commissioner to hand over the money we had then received from our government and to request him to help us, so that we could escort the boy to Lhasa that winter. The commissioner did not take the money, saying that we should hand it over to an official named Ma-daldal. Concerning the boy’s journey, he said, “The matter has to be put forward for the governor’s consideration and the money has to be distributed among the related departments. Then only can I give you a precise answer.”

Several days passed without any reply from him, despite our repeated reminders to both the commissioner and Ma-daldal. Then, one day, the commissioner came with the governor’s message and said that the governor was willing to allow the boy to travel to Tibet without any objection, but that the authorities of Kumbum monastery were not prepared to compromise. They demanded, “If he is the reincarnation of the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama, then this news should be made known to all the big and small monasteries and the lay devotees of Tibetan and Mongol origins in the region, allowing them an opportunity to have his audience.” “Therefore,” concluded the commissioner, “the governor wants you to go back to Kumbum and discuss this matter with the people there.”

Following the governor’s advice we returned to Kumbum and called the people there for a meeting. In the meeting, the participants repeated what the governor had told us through his commissioner. They persistently demanded, “If he is the reincarnation of the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama, then the general public should be informed of this news, allowing them an opportunity to have his audience. If he is not, then why should he be escorted to Lhasa? It is illogical.” In sheer rage, some young participants almost reached the point of striking us. Seeing this, we tried our level best to pacify them by explaining the situation at length: “This is a matter related to the reincarnation of the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama a matter of the spiritual and temporal leader of future Tibet. Such an important matter cannot be decided upon outside Lhasa. All the short-listed candidates have to appear in Lhasa to undergo further tests and other procedures, such as consulting lamas and oracles for divinations and zan brtag etc. The one upon whom the final selection falls will be proclaimed the incarnation and will be invited to dwell either in the potala or the Norbulingka palace. As far as the remaining candidates are concerned, they will not be set aside. The government will recognize them as reincarnated holy beings and provide them and their family members with suitable positions and estates. Those devotees who are still eager to seek his audience may do so, as whether he is ceremonially proclaimed to be the reincarnation or not does not really lead you all to any serious contradiction.” In this way, we tried our level best to explain to them, in a very polite and respectful manner, hoping that they might understand the situation we were in. But it was all in vain; they were adamant in their demands.

Some of our acquaintances at Kumbum suggested that we should instead contact the governor himself, as the meetings we had attended were planned strictly under the governor’s supervision and nothing could come out of them except what the governor decreed. Following their suggestion we left for Ziling, informing the Kumbum that we were going to discuss the matter directly with the governor and that we were looking forward to their cooperation in our mission.

At Ziling, we called on the commissioner, the official Ma-daldal and other high-ranking officials, offering them gifts in cash and kind, hoping for their cooperation. Meanwhile, through the Bureau of Tibetan Affairs, our government also had requested the Chinese government for its cooperation in our mission. All in vain. There was no positive reply for a long time.

Meanwhile, quite a number of local people, including several influential officials whom we knew, came to see us under guise of wanting to give us their personal advice. They urged us to make public the fact that the boy from Taktser was the true incarnation and further suggested that such a proclamation would not only strengthen Tibeto-Ziling relations, but also would earn all the team members great appreciation from both the Tibetan and Ziling governments and from the general public. They also claimed that by declaring this, it would pave the way for more cordial relations between the two countries in future. In this way, many people came to coerce us into revealing our secret, but we were careful not to leak even a word which could harm our real mission.

After repeatedly reminding and pursuing the governor, he finally said “Taking him to Tibet without being proclaimed to be the true reincarnation is against the wishes of the authorities of Kumbum and other major and minor monasteries, as well, as the Tibetan Buddhist devotees and the Mongol Buddhists in the region. Doing so could prove a source of great disappointment for all of them and could create the spread of undesirable rumors.” He demanded an additional payment of Dayang 300 000 to pacify them all and to give us a way out. He also demanded a set of robes and throne decorations used by the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama and a set of Kagyur and Tengyur inscribed in gold. All these were to be preserved in Kumbum monastery. These outrageous demands of the governor came as a great shock to all of us. It went beyond the limit of what is understood as moral and karmic law. However, this was a matter of our future spiritual and temporal ruler, who was going to be the “life force” of both the doctrine and the people of Tibet. We summoned up our courage and decided to “fight fire with fire”. In fact, that was the only option left open to us. We once again went to the governor and explained that we had already paid him a huge amount of money, which should be enough once and for all. As for his demand of a set of Kagyur and Tengyur and the Dalai Lama’s robes and throne ornaments, we told him that we would send them to Kumbum monastery as soon as we reach Lhasa. In this way, we tried to negotiate with him as best as we could, but to no avail. He was adamant that his shameless demands must be met, all the time repeating, “Unless you give the money, you cannot escort him to Tibet.” Understanding his venal and obdurate nature, we returned to Kumbum, saying that we would call on at him after we had consulted our government and received a reply.

Back in Kumbum, we sent a telegram to our government, outlining in detail the changes that the governor had made in his demands. The reply was received two or three weeks later. Our government assured us in the reply that foreign exchange to meet the required sum would soon be arranged for us.

However, the governor was known to be so devious and scandalous in his behavior that it was beyond description. According to local people he and his son were responsible for the assassination of Hotoktu, the throne-holder of Kumbum monastery, as he suspected that the latter’s presence in Ziling could threaten his power. Hotoktu was shot dead at Tin ka’u, on the border of Alak-sha and Khor-thusu, by a gang of over one hundred people dressed as local Muslims; they broke into his lodgings on the pretext of robbery, but left without stealing anything. Hotoktu was on his way back to Kumbum, after a stay in China during the Iron Sheep Year and had established a close relationship with China’s ruler, Chang Kai Shek, from whom he had received an official seal of authority in religious affairs. When the assassinated lama’s body arrived at Ziling, Governor Ma had made a great show of Chinese traditional mourning and had arranged for a grand procession of his military to accompany the body to Kumbum monastery, feigning great respect for the deceased. The Assassins were Ma’s soldiers in disguise.

While we were in Kumbum another despicable episode unfolded. The people told us one day that the Chinese government had removed Governor Ma from his position, appointing him commander-chief of the Ziling army, and that the new governor already in charge was one of his paternal uncles. On hearing this, we went to Ziling with an array of gifts including antlers, musk, length of wool and a selection of superfine brocades. We met with the commissioner, as was customary and applied for an appointment with the new governor which was readily accepted. He was a very pleasant old man who assured us of his full support in further improving Tibeto-Ziling relations.

But before long we began to hear news of robberies and bloodshed that sent waves of fear through the entire region under the new governor’s jurisdiction; the attacks included the monasteries and hermitages. According to the local people, this treachery was engineered by Ma Bu-fang to discredit the new governor’s image and prove him an inefficient administrator. All the criminals were said to have been his soldiers whom he had sent out disguised as robbers. Also, it is said that he bribed the Kuomintang military commander, Marshal Pai Chung-hsi, by giving him three tins of “Elephant Brand Kashmiri Saffron” filled with gold to reinstate him as governor. We saw the airplane that carried Marshal Pal to Ziling, but knew nothing more than that. But three months later, Ma was certainly reinstated as governor, and his old paternal uncle had to leave Ziling badly disappointed. That was Governor Ma for you; champion of diabolical schemes.

“Beware of him! He will be outrageously cruel if he comes to know about the truth behind this vitally important matter of the reincarnation of His Holiness the Dalai Lama”, was the repeated warning all the lamas, monks and people loyal to the Tibetan government in Kumbum gave us. What worried us most was not what he might do to us, but what he might do to discover our secret. Therefore, we hid our original files in the ceiling and drafted false ones to keep in our file boxes. Also, we sent a telegram to our government stating, “‘A wolf who is accustomed to eating horses can never be satisfied by eating sheep’. We cannot be sure that he will not change his mind again. Therefore, sending the foreign exchange may be delayed for the time being.”

The fear that we might fall prey to yet another trick of the governor haunted us throughout the days that followed. We could neither sleep nor savor our food properly, but thanks to the Three Jewels, no serious obstacles befell us. The next thing that concerned us was how to deliver the foreign exchange to the governor. While we were trying to devise the best way to do it, we discovered that a group of rich Muslims, under the leadership of one called Khangpu Tontang, was leaving on pilgrimage to Mecca via India that year. This was a happy coincidence. Samdup from Amdo Ja-khyung (the then head of the Reting estate in Ziling) and I, went to meet Khangpu Tontang in Ziling, carrying a selection of woolen cloth as gifts. During our discussion with him, we asked if his Pilgrim Association had [a sum of] money [amounting to Dayang 300 000] to exchange. To this he replied, “It is a huge sum. It would play havoc [with your plan] if the governor did not abide by his promise again. I will have to consult my fellow pilgrims, as I cannot take the risk alone.” I also had to consult Kewtsang Rinpoche and my team of colleagues. However, we tentatively agreed as follows:

Once the money is paid through this exchange arrangement, the Pilgrim Association will be fully responsible for persuading the governor not to create any further trouble. As a token of this, the Association will receive an equal sum in British Indian currency against the Chinese Dayang it has paid to the Ziling governor [on behalf of the Tibetan Government], disregarding the fact that the value of the British Indian currency is higher than that of the Chinese Dayang.

 

With this, we arranged the date for our next meeting and took leave to return to Kumbum.

It was then that the Panchen Lama, Lobsang Thubten Chokyi Nyima Gelek Pal-sangpo (seventh in the lineage from Panchen Wensapa) passed away at Keygudo at the age of fifty-five. This happened while the Tibetan Government was giving serious thought to the question of whether the Chinese military escort accompanying him should be given permission to enter Tibet or not. Tsechogling Trulku and Ngulchu Trulku sent a telegram from the head office of the Panchen estate requesting puja-offerings to be made to commemorate his death, these we were able to carry out at Kumbum and other monasteries.

Then, on the arranged date, our party members went to Ziling to meet with Tontan. After several rounds of discussion we mutually agreed to the following points:

·         that Tontan and the Pilgrim Committee would deal with the governor cautiously and firmly so that he would keep to his promise and would not interrupt their journey by playing tricks of any kind, like dispatching his soldiers disguised as highway robbers and so forth.

·         that the full payment of cash in Dayang would be handed over to the governor by a person representing the Pilgrim Association.

·          that this amount would be repaid by an equal sum in British Indian currency on our arrival at Lhasa, provided that the journey was concluded without any intervention, directly or indirectly, by Governor Ma.

·         and that the set of Kagyur and Tengyur and the set of His Holiness the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama’s robes and throne trappings demanded by the governor for Kumbum monastery, would be sent to the monastery only after our arrival at Lhasa and the governor must agree to this.

Following this, we informed the governor through the commissioner of the contents of our agreement. Then we drafted it in four copies, both in Chinese and Tibetan, duly signed by the governor, the authorities of Kumbum monastery, Khangpu Tontang, and all the members of our team. Each parry involved retained a copy, which described the young Dalai Lama as a “possible candidate to be His Holiness the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama’s reincarnation”. And so this agreement safely paved our way to escort the young Dalai Lama to Tibet.

Thanks to the blessings of the young Dalai Lama, the Protector Deity Nechung and Goddess Palden Lhamo, we were able to connect with persons such as Khangpu Tontang, who incidentally was a blood relative of Governor Ma, and other wealthy Muslim pilgrims capable of loaning the huge sum of money we required. Of course, our government did agree to send us the money, but we had been enduring such a hazardous situation that we were reminded of the ancient proverb, “one who had fallen prey to a snake’s bite in the past, would blench at the sight of a length of black rope with white stripes”. It remained uncertain what kind of plot the governor might come up with, and considering all aspects of the matter it was impossible to undertake the young Dalai Lama’s journey to Lhasa immediately.

Then at Kumbum we met the monastic authorities, the head of the Taktser estate, and the young Dalai Lama’s parents and it was agreed that we would set out in the Tibetan year 2066 (1939), and join up with groups of summer travelers. When the governor was informed, he demanded a further sum of Dayangs 5000 for Chinese security guards to escort and protect the young Dalai Lama. And in addition he decreed that one of the original four-member search party would have to remain in Ziling until the rest of the party (including the young Dalai Lama) reached Lhasa.

We immediately sent a telegram to our government informing them of the new situation. They replied saying, “It has been laudable that you have so carefully arranged within a short span of time the money that is to be given to the Governor, securing full assurance that he will not change his mind again. The money for the payment of security guards should also be arranged the way you did before. If it is absolutely necessary for one of you to remain behind, then that should be Lobsang Tsewang.” Through the commissioner we informed the governor of these details and told him that since we would be accompanied by summer travelers there would be no need for a large force of security guards. In any case, any guards escorting us would be sent back as soon as we crossed the border into Tibet.

With everything finally settled, all of us, the team members together with the young Dalai Lama, his parents, his uncle Taktser Rinpoche and the heads of Kumbum estates, went to Ziling for a final meeting with the governor. Although later he hosted a lunch parry in our honor, he did not join us, sending in his stead the commissioner and a few other officials to entertain us. It is unclear whether he knew that Tibetans would be offended, but some of the ceramic cups and plates had broken rims, fixed with lead. Then for the young Dalai Lama’s journey to Tibet, they gave us one palanquin and two male mules along with saddles, as well as one horse each for all the team members.

Back at Kumbum, the Venerable Khenrab Tenzin and I went to the head of Taktser estate and requested him to make the necessary arrangements for the young Dalai Lama and his parents’ journey. We gave him a selection of woolen cloth and advance money to meet the expenditure.

Then, on an astrologically chosen day, we invited the young Dalai Lama for a ceremony at Chesho estate, where Kewtsang Rinpoche was staying, since there was a throne of the late Dalai Lama there. We sat him on the throne in his new robes and began the ceremony, which consisted of offerings of tea and rice and then a mandala offering by Kewtsang Rinpoche. At the end, all of us present received his blessings. In this way we were able to accomplish that ceremony without any hindrance and were able to open an auspicious chapter in the history of Tibet.

On that day we arranged for an offering of one hundred butter lamps in front of Kumbum’s Golden Stupa, and a puja in the monastery, offering each monk a Dayang. Then we took the young Dalai Lama around to see the sacred shrines and afterwards he sat on a magnificent seat prepared for him at the entrance to the monastery’s hall, where the abbot offered him tea, rice and fruits. In this way the day ended auspiciously; everything had gone in our favor, even the weather.

Regarding the date of our departure, we had already finalized it with the head of Reting estate in Ziling and a group of summer travelers including the estate man, Samdup from Amdo Ja-khyung. As for Tsechogling Trulku and Ngulchu Trulku, whom the late Panchen Lama had previously deputed to assist us, the former had been invited by Hotoktu on an invitation, and the latter decided to go to Keygudo after spending time at Kumbum, Keygudo being the place where most of the Panchen Lama’s attendants had been staying. So this was how things were concluded in Ziling.

 

The Journey to Lhasa

 

 Our journey to Lhasa began from Kumbum monastery on the first day of the sixth month of the Earth Hare Year (1939). It was a fine sunny day with white clouds dotting the sky and forming into various auspicious shapes, occasionally punctuated by light showers. Our way of travelling was that the young Dalai Lama along with his elder brother Lobsang Samten rode in the palanquin supported by mules; his mother also traveled in a mule-carried palanquin which had been presented by his uncle; those who rode on horseback included his father, his elder brother Gyalo Dondub, the senior and junior heads of Kumbum estate, and Kewtsang Rinpoche and the other party members.

Our first stopover was at Tsechuka in Drekhog Shalkar valley. The young Dalai Lama’s eldest sister Tsering Dolma and her husband, who had come to see us off, turned back from there. When we left Kumbum there was no formal procession of monks to see us off, most probably because we resisted their demands to proclaim the boy to be the true incarnation. Before we set out from Tsechuka, a group of horsemen came all the way from Tongkhor Thubten Shedrupling monastery to receive us. At Sholungdo, there was another group of horsemen from the same monastery waiting to receive us. Yet another group at Tashi Thang received us with tea and rice. Then, at the monastery, the head lama and the monastic authorities followed by a procession of monks received the young Dalai Lama with the traditional incense welcome and led him to the Lama’s residence where they had arranged a grand meal. After the meal, the young Dalai Lama gave blessings to everyone present there including lamas, monks and lay people from three neighboring regions. Although the administrators asked us to stay on for another day, Tontan and some of his fellow Muslim pilgrims, who had arrived soon after we did, insisted on continuing the journey the next morning, for they had already sent their horse caravan on ahead. The next morning the monks came out in procession, just as they had done the day before, and led the Dalai Lama to their monastery’s main temple and the protector deity temple for him to bless them. Many people saw that the flowers and grains thrown in the air during blessing ceremonies by the Dalai Lama formed into clusters on the temple floor resembling the shape of a jewel called Coils of Joy. An auspicious sign!

It was from there that the Venerable Lobsang Tsewang turned back to Kumbum, since he was pledged to stay there as the governor demanded. It was a sad moment for all of us to part from him, but there was no choice. We bade him a warm farewell with our prayers to see him again as soon as possible and continued on our journey. Travel began every day at early dawn and continued up until the next stopover, usually a distance that could be covered by midday or a little after. The sites for stopovers are usually chosen for their good grazing land with plenty of drinking water and enough flat ground for the tents to be pitched.

After we crossed the Donyida pass Tontan, along with his fellow pilgrims and the group of Tibetan merchants, joined us in our daily stopovers. Also with us was one of Tontan’s fellow Muslim pilgrims named Mayon, whom the governor had nominated as the young Dalai Lama’s bodyguard. In fact, the governor had not sent along any security guards, although we had paid for them.

At every stopover, big crowds of Tibetan and Mongolian nomads from all around thronged our site to receive the young Dalai Lama’s hand touch blessing. To save him from the tiring task of having to stretch his little hands onto everybody’s head, we made a dar lcang to bless the people while he was seated.

While at Tsadam we set our horses and mules free to graze in the nearby pastures, as our next stopover was to be in the land called No Grass No Water. Well equipped, and with sufficient drinking water, we proceeded. By the time we reached the next stopover it was almost dusk. That night our horses and mules received only a small quantity of beans as fodder, which was tantamount to leaving them with an empty stomach. Whenever they heard any of us passing by, they filled the entire valley with their clamorous neighing and stamping, begging for more fodder. The next day, starting out at dawn we continued our journey further to Dranag, a place slightly better than No Grass No Water. At least it had sparse grazing lands and drinking water. We arrived at about midday and spent the rest of the day there.

In this way we had been travelling hard for many days in the upper part of the northern deserts, which really was too much for the young Dalai Lama to endure at that age. There had been a few occasions when he cried and frowned at his brother Lobsang Samten in the palanquin. Otherwise, he was always healthy and there was no problem of any kind. His father, a kind man who was fond of horses and mules, used to join us at every stopover and spent a good deal of time in our company. This made us very uneasy, as we had to treat him just like one of us, although he actually was the father of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. But in view of the vow to keep matters secret we had no choice. As for his mother, we seldom saw her coming out of her tent or palanquin as she was always busy embroidering clothes.

When we arrived at Little Happy Valley and saw the Tibetan border guards approaching us on horseback, we were overjoyed, saying to ourselves, “We are now in our homeland”. Amidst clouds of incense smoke, the security guards received us with scarves. They then demonstrated their skills at horsemanship, athletics, speed in mounting and dismounting and similar talents, yodelling at the top of their voices “Ki hi hi!” It was all great fun for the young Dalai Lama to watch them.

Then, at A-tshar-shugu, as the leader of the parry of summer travelers had requested, we arranged an audience with the young Dalai Lama for all the summer travelers accompanying us. For this we prepared a throne by cutting squares of turf from the meadow and piling them up. When he had settled on his “throne”, the leader made the mandala offerings, and then the travelers were received in audience.

On our journey beyond there, one of the male mules carrying the young Dalai Lama’s palanquin grew weak. In order to replace it, we trained a big mule belonging to the Kumbum estate whenever we stopped earlier than usual for the night. On one such stopover, Tontan’s groom came with the news that there was a big group of horsemen gathered on the other side of the pass. We immediately had a meeting and decided that each group would send its strongest and best-equipped horsemen to guard the camp at night. For the next five or six days we divided our parry, one half travelling first, the other half coming on later. Fortunately we encountered no robbers or thieves.

After three months of travel we arrived at the bank of the Thutob river (also known as Reting Waterway), where we were met by the manager of the Potala Treasury, Thubten Thardo, and the manager of the Monlam Festival Fund, Sarjung-sey, whom the government had deputed to receive us with further provisions such as Tsampa, wheat flour, fodder plus four hide coracles for crossing the river. We used one

of the coracles to ferry the young Dalai Lama to the other side, which gave him much amusement. That evening, both the managers and their attendants had an audience and received his blessings.

Whenever our route passed through swamps or across uneven grassy tracks or rocky gorges, where travelling in the palanquin on mule-back was unsafe, the Venerable Khenrab Tenzin and myself took turns to carry the young Dalai Lama on our backs. It was quite a hard job for both of us, as neither of us were strongly-built, nor had we any experience in carrying things on our backs. Often our co

travelers had to support us by holding our hands. It was, however, our fortune to have such an auspicious opportunity- a source of the greatest merit we could accumulate.

The route we passed through was the standard route for all the summer travelers. From Tongkhor monastery to Nagchu we encountered no permanent habitations, just a few sparsely

located nomad tents. Apart from some dense forests around Shugpa

lungpa in the region of lake Kokonor, all we came across in those areas were smaller lakes, lush green pastoral plains dotted by small mounds, and a rich variety of animals, such as wild yak, wild asses, various species of deer, wild goats and so forth. Generally travelers encounter some difficulties while passing through the regions around Tsadam, such as attacks by poisonous bees or being bogged down in swamps, when pack animals often become stuck and perish. There were also said to be problems reassembling pack animals which are sent out to graze and then go missing with wild animals of their type. Strangely enough, we did not encounter much swampy land, nor many mosquitoes. Seeing that our journey was going much more smoothly than was usually the case, some veteran Ziling travelers in our parry said, “It was never so easy to pass through these regions as this occasion. We did hear that it was the same when His Holiness the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama and his entourage returned from China through Mongolia. There is no doubt that this is due to the blessings of the young Dalai Lama.” We encountered nothing specially remarkable along the way, except for pebbles in a place called Doragsha, located near an area called Happy Little Valley. It was interesting that most of those pebbles were full of grooves and bumps and so resembled the rudraksha seeds we use for rosaries.

At the time when we were crossing the Tibetan border, after having passed the Chinese frontier guards, our government was holding a special meeting in Lhasa on an auspicious day and proclaimed the young Dalai Lama to be the true incarnation of late Dalai Lama. The government then immediately dispatched Monlam Festival Fund Manager Lachag Neushar Thubten Tharpa, Fourth Grade Civil Service Officer Rin-gang and others to receive the young Dalai Lama, bringing with them his moderate size yellow tent to mark the honor he deserved. We had erected their reception camp at Bumchen with His Holiness’ yellow tent resembling a mound of marigolds standing out in the landscape. Then, when we had passed over the Tongkhor Pass and reached there, they invited the young Dalai Lama to seat himself inside the tent on a throne richly decorated with the finest brocades. There followed a mandala offering ceremony by Monlam Festival Fund Manager Neushar and hand touch blessings to all who had journeyed to receive him. From then on we used the yellow tent wherever we stopped over for the night. Now his parents came to know that their son was the true candidate, and his father, who was really a frank man, asked right away, “Why did you keep this matter a secret from me?” We explained to him that we did not want to make this matter public, as we could not trust the governor, suspecting that he might use this as an opportunity to interfere in Tibet’s internal matters, and also, that we were oath-bound not to reveal this secret. Convinced by this, he said, “Good! It was good that you kept this matter secret.” In the following days, each time we reached a vantage point from where we could catch sight of our next stopover, the yellow tent would already be in place, set up by the advance party. At that moment a light and pleasant shower or a little hail would fall. This phenomenon continued up until we reached Nagchu.

At this stage in our journey, a special messenger from our government arrived with a memorandum, which declared, “The current year’s ninth month is an inauspicious one. Considering this, the most fitting date for His Holiness to enter Lhasa would be at the beginning of the tenth month. Accordingly, it is suggested that you delay or slow down your travel, so that His Holiness arrives in Lhasa as scheduled above.” After discussing this matter amongst ourselves, our leader, Kewtsang Rinpoche

wrote a reply saying: “Delaying our travel could mean a great risk for us, especially, when the route has to pass through several isolated places, where the security of His Holiness’ life could well be threatened. We could rather speed up our travel and reach Lhasa in the eighth month than delay it until the tenth month. If the government still insists that we delay our journey, then that should be at Nagchu. Until we reach Nagchu, we will continue our journey at the same speed as we have been travelling. Furthermore, we request that a lama or an official who could take full responsibility for His Holiness’ security may be sent to Nagchu. It would be only upon his arrival that we could halt our journey as the schedule has suggested.” Immediately they received our reply the government dispatched Lay Minister Bonsho and others with such haste that they had to leave Lhasa while their colleagues were enjoying the annual ministers’ picnic. They also departed without being able to wait for their new official travel costumes, which they had ordered for this purpose. They told the story of leaving Lhasa in such haste, then travelling day and night without any stopover, that they discovered some of their baggage had dropped from the backs of their pack animals while travelling at night or crossing rivers.

In spite of this they had put up their reception camp at Gashi Nagmoche, a location about ten days’ journey from Lhasa. It was strongly built by a team of government officials, including top ranking ones such as Lay Minister Bonsho, Monk-Secretary Telingpa Khenrab Wangchug, Senior Chef Lobsang Jinpa, representatives from the three principal monasteries, a group of monk and lay civil service officers, and the caretakers of His Holiness’ bed, kitchen, tents and carpets etc.

Shortly before the break of dawn, Lay Minister Bonsho, Monk-Secretary Khenrab Wangchug, Senior Chef Lobsang Jinpa and a few other high-ranking officials came forward to receive us with flashlights in their hands. When they approached the young Dalai Lama’s palanquin to receive his blessing, we were worried, thinking that he might easily get irritated by being woken up in the middle of his sleep, as he was then too young to know what was going on. Tentatively, Kewtsang Rinpoche drew back the palanquin curtains, where, to our relief, we found him not at all upset, but smiling and peering at those sent to receive him very attentively. With the help of Kewtsang Rinpoche, he received their scarves and returned them with his blessings. Just as he blessed them by placing his graceful little hands on their heads, the dawn broke and, then, as he reached the reception camp and entered the tent, the sun’s first rays illuminated the scene. These were the auspicious and spontaneous occurrences.

Then, we dressed him in the new robes sent from Lhasa and set him on the throne in the tent for the ceremony, beginning with offerings of tea and rice. Then came the mandala offerings by Minister Bonsho, followed by offerings of gifts and letters sent by the Regent, the National Assembly and the Cabinet of Ministers.

As soon as the ceremony came to its end, we continued our journey escorted by a grand procession of horsemen with the young Dalai Lama carried in a yellow palanquin. En route, there were monks from nearby locales lined up on either side of the road, playing religious music with woodwind, percussion and so forth; also, a huge number of nomads and peasants joined the line in their best costumes, performing various regional songs and dances, while clouds of fragrant incense smoke ascended from the roadside.

In the eighth month of the Earth Hare Year we reached Nagchu, where the authorities, lamas, monks and the general public received us at Shabten monastery. There they gave His Holiness a grand welcoming ceremony during which they offered him the “white delicacies” and other gifts. Since the crowd seeking an audience at Nagchu was rather big, we suggested they gather in the monastery’s forecourt to have a glimpse of him from the top floor. The young Dalai Lama blessed them from there by scattering blessed barley grains on them, while Kewtsang Rinpoche held him on his lap. Thrilled with joy they were shouting to each other, “A happy sun now shines on Tibet”.

It was from then on that the Senior Chef, Lobsang Jinpa, began to cook for His Holiness. His first day at work went as if it was his daily routine and he was not at all nervous. Indeed, he was the senior chef at the kitchen of His Holiness the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama.

After a two days stopover at Nagchu, a warm and ceremonious farewell by the monks of various monastic communities and a send-off with songs and dances by the local peasantry and nomads sent us onward on our journey. The next reception camp awaiting us was at Dam Uma-thang, where Regent Reting Rinpoche accompanied by his subordinates, Chief Personal Attendant Venerable Ngawang Tenzin and various other officials, had come to receive us. We spent the night there, during which the Regent, while officiating at the ceremony to mark his meeting with the young Dalai Lama, offered him the mandala symbolizing the Buddha’s body, mind and speech, followed by the welcome offerings including, “white delicacies”. The next morning we continued our journey further to Reting Gephelling monastery- the foremost seat of the Kadampa school, whose location, according to the Kadam Legbam, was known to have been one of the power places mentioned in the vajra songs of Oddiyana Dakini which she sang to Dharma King Khonchogbang.

On our arrival there we were received by a grand procession, which included the monks from the monastery, nuns from the neighboring nunnery, Samtenling, the general public and groups of dancers, musicians and opera performers. They escorted the young Dalai Lama into the Sun Rays Chamber on the top floor of Reting Residence, and then a performance of songs, dances and excerpts from operas was staged.

The next day, a grand welcoming ceremony took place in the monastery’s main assembly hall. The regent, followed by a procession of monks and officials, led the young Dalai Lama into the hall and sat him on His Holiness the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama’s throne. There followed offerings including the “white delicacies” arranged by Reting estate and the offering of mandala by Regent Reting Rinpoche himself. Then came the Treasurer of the Panchen estate accompanied by his retinue bringing with them offerings of various types. In addition, the monastic authorities of Gephelling monastery and all the monks were received in audience and given his hand-touch blessing.

As soon as the ceremony came to a close, the regent led the young Dalai Lama around the monastery complex and showed him its most sacred possessions, including Atisa’s silver memorial statue of Manjushri and Dromtonpa’s Prajnaparamita of 8000 verses. After he had made offerings to all those sacred objects, the Dalai Lama emerged on the monastery’s top floor and greeted the large crowd of townspeople and neighboring nomads with a broad smile, blessing them with consecrated barley grains.

Then, one day, the regent invited the young Dalai Lama, along with a small group from his entourage, to a picnic on the riverbank below the monastery where a picnic spot with beautiful pavilions was located. He also allowed us members of the search team a private audience with him at his residence. In all we spent three days’ at Reting monastery during which the Reting estate offered us splendid service and hospitality.

The government had sent us sets of official costumes for His Holiness’ parents and relatives. His father and his brothers each accepted a set of plain brocade phyu pa and colorful upper garments whereas his mother preferred to remain in her regional costume rather than replacing it with gowns the government had sent for her. This turned out to be fortunate for the people, as she was distinctive and could not be mistaken for the wives of high-ranking officials.

The day we left Reting, the monks came out in procession in the monastery’s forecourt and gave us an affectionate send off. The monastery authorities, including the high-ranking lamas and other officials, accompanied us up until we reached Phodrangthang, where they exchanged farewell scarves with the young Dalai Lama. Prom there we continued our journey, crossing the Chag Pass and passing through the scenic land of Phenpo with overnight stopovers at the foot of Jerig Taktse Fort (the fort of Desi Tagtsewa) and other suitable camping sites.

At Dromtod another reception camp of eminent officials was awaiting us. This group included the lay minister, Nangjungba, Zasag ‘Tsarongpa, Teji Shenkhawa, the late Thirteenth Dalai Larva’s academic assistant, Takdra Rinpoche, his ritual assistant, Khenpo Jampa Legtsog, plus other secretary-level civil service officers from the Tse and Sho academies.

On our arrival they each paid their respects to the young Dalai Lama and received his blessings. When Khenpo Jampa Legtsog, the former ritual assistant, approached to be blessed the young Dalai Lama’s attention became transfixed by a thang ka-container, which he had slung across his back. This carried the speaking thang ka of Goddess Palden Lhamo from the late Dalai Lama’s apartments, a painting that all the Dalai Lamas in the past had revered as particularly holy. Before the Khenpo could tell the young Dalai Lama what the thang ka was, he opened the box, took it out and unscrolled it, and then he gazed at it with great delight on his face, as if he was seeing something very dear to him after a long separation. At that time, an elderly monk from Gaden Jangtse monastery called Gowo Jangchub, who had served as a bodyguard for the late Thirteenth Dalai Lama for a long period of time, was so moved on seeing this that he began to cry. Holding my hands, he thanked me and the members of our search team, saying, “I shall pray for your long and healthy lives. Now that I have seen the young Dalai Lama, I can die with no regret”.

The old monk had recently almost died of a serious illness, during which he had said, “I just cannot breathe my last unless and until I see the young Dalai Lama.” He was so overjoyed when he first saw the young Dalai Lama, that he almost leapt up and down like a child. It was such an emotional sight, watching a broad shouldered old man, still strongly built and with a gruff voice, shedding tears, that I could not hold back my own tears. Everyone around me was spellbound, tears falling from their eyes and faces expressing a mixture of joy and anguish. Many monks and lay people present approached us to offer thanks from the depth of their hearts, saying “You are the ones who have brought happiness and prosperity to Tibet.”

The state-level reception camp that the government prepared was at the plain of Doguthang, but most of the monks, as well as the lay officials, had come to receive us at Saintenling hermitage and offered us a midday meal. After this point in our journey the young Dalai Lama’s mother rode on horseback, instead of in a palanquin.

The tents at Doguthang were arranged in three rings (an inner, middle and outer circle), and the sight was magnificent, resembling rings of heavenly bodies twinkling in a starry night. At the very centre was the Dalai Lama’s own marquee made of superfine yellow brocade and called the “Great Peacock”. Surrounding it were tents for his bed, prayers, dining and so forth

all furbished in the fashion of typical Mongol tents, using tiger and leopard skins and the best quality yellow brocade. The next two rings consisted of the tents of the regent, the prime-minister, the young Dalai Lama’s family, the lay ministers, secretary-level civil service officials from grades one to three, and officials from the Potala and Downtown Treasury.

On our arrival, we were met by a grand procession of government dignitaries, civil and defense officers, lamas, reincarnates and foreign representatives all led by troops of various regiments, which escorted the young Dalai Lama into the Great Peacock tent at the center of the inner ring of the reception camp and placed him on the throne. After offerings of “white delicacies”, etc., mandala offerings were performed by the regent and the prime-minister, and then the young Dalai Lama received all those present and gave them his hand-touch blessing. This included the ministers, Gungs, Dza zags, Dar bans, Ta lamas, Dargans, Thai jis, the secretary level civil service officers, the officers of account departments, military chiefs, the officers of Potala and Downtown Treasury, the officers of Lhasa and Shol Municipal Committee and the officers of Tibetan Police Force, the monk and lay officers of both civil and defence service, the then throne holder of Gaden, Chos rjes of Gaden Shartse and Jangtse, the lamas and reincarnates of the monasteries such as Gaden, Sera, Drepung, Gyuto, Gyumey, Namgyal, Nechung, Kundeling, Tsemonling, Meru, Samtenling, Chakpori and the monasteries in the distant regions. Also included were the people from Sakya, Tashi Lhunpo, the leaders of Lhasa-based Mongols, the representatives from India, China, Kashmir, Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan and others.

After having camped there for two days, we set out for the great city of Lhasa on the twenty-fifth day of the eighth month of the year 206& (1939) which astrologers chose as the most auspicious day for the young Dalai Lama’s arrival to the capital. We marched in the most magnificent procession, which otherwise only takes place during what is called “The Great Travel”, that is when the Dalai Lama makes a journey. Led by the music of dho dar players, the procession gradually moved ahead; there were various banner

holders on horseback, followed by the extra saddled horses, bearers of the young Dalai Lama’s personal belongings; monks from Namgyal monastery, the senior grades of civil service officials, the lord chamberlain, bodyguards, the caretakers of the kitchen, bedroom and prayer room, lay-ministers, the regent, the prime minister, and senior representatives of Gaden, Sera and Drepung monastic universities.

Following Kewtsang Rinpoche’s suggestion, the members of the search team changed into “travel dress”, except for the Venerable Khenrab Tenzin, who preferred to remain in his monk robes as he had by then been promoted to take charge of His Holiness’ bedroom. As the procession set out, Kewtsang Rinpoche took his place to the right of the Dalai Lama’s palanquin. I followed immediately after the palanquin, travelling alongside his family, and we were followed by the lamas and reincarnates from Gaden, Sera and Drepung. In this fashion the procession moved with measured dignity, the young Dalai Lama, the lord of the three realms, the reincarnation of the omniscient one, sitting in his yellow palanquin, as glorious as Lord Indra in his Paradise “Beautiful To Look At”, surrounded by his attendants- or as pacifying as the full moon surrounded by millions of minor heavenly bodies, whose mere appearance is inspiring enough to heal the wounded hearts of all living beings.

To celebrate the young Dalai Lama’s arrival and to welcome him, people from hermitages, villages, towns, monasteries and forts had put up prayer flags and various types of banners on their top-floor and burned incense and juniper leaves, so clouds of fragrant smoke ascended into the air which was reverberating with the music of woodwind, percussion and other instruments. There were thousands of monks lining both sides of the road, holding offerings of the seven precious jewels, and beside them monk dancers masked as tigers, lions, garudas, dragons and deer. There were lay dancers of the dro and shon traditions. Contingents from various regiments came out on parade, saluting the young Dalai Lama, while Tibetans of all ages and social status, from both near and far-flung regions, thronged the roadside clad in their best costumes, and singing, dancing, jumping and often bursting into choruses of “Chod! A happy sun is now shining over Tibet!” Watching the procession in utter amazement, some murmured with their eyes filled with tears of ecstasy, “Is this a dream or is it really, really happening?” Every face expressed awe and devotion.

The attire of the young Dalai Lama’s parents and other family members, all mounted on horseback, really impressed the crowds, and we could hear people saying, “Look at those costumes! They look so graceful in them.” My presence there among the Dalai Lama’s family seemed to create some confusion among the crowd, as I was clad in an official “travel costume”. “Look at that man! Is he a Tibetan?” I could hear them speculating. But there were others who could recognize me, and I overheard them saying, “It seems that he had to work hard during this trip. His health has deteriorated tremendously. Hasn’t he been noble to endure so much hardship. He is kind!” I suppose I was infused with a sense of pride when I overheard them saying this, although I am not the one who should be credited. Whatever achievements we had been able to accomplish were all due to the power of the young Dalai Lama’s compassion and the faith of the people in him.