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13. Temple of the Life of the Buddha Hall: Popju-sa
Two kilometers before the entrance to the temple is a tree many might miss.
It is a 600 year-old pine tree near the road. Legend tells that it bowed
its branches in front of King Sejo ?a story of guilt. King Sejo was the
second son of King Sejong; he succeeded the throne by murdering his nephew.
In old age he suffered from a severe skin ailment and tried to find solace
from his ailment as well as his bad conscience in the forests of Sogni-san
Mountain.
One day he met a young woman whose two boys called him grandfather. The
woman was Princess Uisook, Sejo's daughter, who had to flee her father
because she had pleaded for the life of the murdered nephew. At this
meeting the king begged for forgiveness and invited these members of his
family back to the palace. The princess refused saying that she preferred
her simple life and she later fled further south.
Located on Songni-san Mountain, Popju-sa, "The Dharma Staying" temple, is
believed to have been founded in 553, during the reign of King Chinhung;
Master Uisang helped build it up. There is a record which states that, at
times, 3,000 monks lived here. Eight times renovated, the last occasion was
in 1906. Popju-sa is a Head Temple and has some 27 lesser temples under it.
Behind the entrance gate there are two granite pillars dating from 11th
century which were used to support the temple painting for special
occasions.
In a pavilion on the right side is the 2.70-meter diameter iron pot dating
from 720. There is a record which states that the pot was used in the 12th
century to serve monks and pilgrims.
The Main Hall or Hall of Great Light is a shrine to Vairocana, Sakyamuni
and Rochana. Behind these three images there are three paintings of the
Buddhas accompanied by enlightened disciples, Bodhisattvas as well as by a
youthful Ananda and a very elderly Kasyapa. Sakyamuni and Rochana are
surrounded by rainbows and Vairocana is surrounded by a huge white halo,
symbolizing the absolute.
The five-storey pagoda, the oldest wooden pagoda in Korea, was originally
built in 553; it is National Treasure No. 55. A copy of this pagoda was
made in Nara 50 years later at Horiuji. (In Japan, the original pagodas are
still standing but in Korea they've all been destroyed by the numerous
invasions. A copy of the original pagoda is in the Seoul National Museum.)
This one was constructed in 1624 and it has been carefully preserved since
then. It is a "Life of the Buddha" or "Eight Paintings Hall" with large
murals telling the story of the life of Sakyamuni Buddha; the paintings are
not in chronological order. The beautifully carved beams are painted in
special designs. Around the central pillar, Buddhists circumnambulate as a
practice of remembering the Buddha and the task before them to understand
his teachings. There are four statues of Sakyamuni, each one facing one of
the four cardinal directions, each one showing a different mudra or hand
position. The Buddha facing east has the pose of fearlessness, the one
facing west is in the pose of Turning the Wheel of the Dharma (teaching),
the one facing south shows the earth touching pose and the Buddha facing
the north is lying down, Buddha in the dying pose -- very rare in Korea.
The entourage shows Bodhisattvas and disciples brightly clad and
bejewelled. There are some women among the followers.
In front of the paintings, there are 340 little white Buddhas representing
the innumerable beings in all places in all world systems. These images are
often called disciples even though they actually have the marks of Buddhas.
These marks include the long ears, the curled hair and the bump on the
head.
Gazing down at the pagoda is a 33-meter high, 160 ton copper Maitreya
Buddha. In 1872, King Kojong's father took the Maitreya Buddha statue made
by Chinp'yo. In 1939, a new statue was started but couldn't be completed.
So in 1964, President Park donated money for a new statue and this allowed
the temple to finish the statue with cement. In 1990, the statue was
replaced with this bronze one.
Nearby there is a two-meter high statue of a woman carrying a pot in her
hands. The statue is reputed to be Sujata who offered food to the Buddha
just before he attained enlightenment.
Other treasures include a four-meter stone lantern which is Treasure No.
15. There's also a water basin, National Treasure No. 64, shaped like a
half-opened magnolia flower. It used to stand in front of the previous
Maitreya Hall and is a symbol of the pond in the paradise of the Future
Buddha. The lion lantern, National Treasure No. 5, consists of a rare
Shilla lantern about 3.3-meters in height dating from 720, made during the
reign of King Sondok (r. 702-737).
Tourists may enjoy the many trails leading up to different hermitages and
to the peak of Mt. Songni-san.
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