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12. The Temple Named after a Philosophy: Hwaom-sa
Hwaom-sa Temple's name is taken directly from that of one of the most
influential texts in the history of Korean Buddhism: the Avatamsaka Sutra.
The underlying theme of the text is the universal oneness of all things.
Built on the slopes of striking Mt. Chiri-san, Hwaom-sa Temple is one of
Korea's most beautiful places. Records state that the site was between the
kingdoms of Shilla and Paekje and that it was first selected by Master
Yon-gi in 554 in the reign of King Chinhung (r. 540-576). Master Uisang
expanded the temple in 634 when he introduced the Avatamsa philosophy. The
temple was destroyed by the Hideyoshi Invasion and rebuilt by Master Pyogam
in 1630 under King Injo (r. 1623-1649).
The temple follows the one Main Hall-twin pagoda pattern on a north-south
axis of the Unified Shilla Period. In this plan, two pagodas were built in
front of one Main Hall in the main courtyard. In Hwaom-sa, the eastern
pagoda, Treasure No. 132, is an unadorned five-storey pagoda and the
western, Treasure No. 133 is a richly decorated double-pedestaled pagoda
which is ornamented with the eight divine generals, four guardians and the
zodiac animals. The pagodas are respectively Treasures 132 and 133.
The Main Hall was built in 1630 and is an important example of middle
Choson period architecture; it is Treasure No. 299. The central statue is
of Vairocana, the Cosmic Buddha on the right of which is Sakyamuni and on
the left is Rochana.
Let us take a look at Rochana Buddha. In Buddhism, depending on the period
and the ™fashion?(sometimes one Buddha or Bodhisattva is more popular than
another), Rochana can be a form of Amitabha, the Nirmanakaya or the
mind-made, emanation body. In a triad with Vairocana, the Dharmakaya, or
uncontaminated body, Rochana Buddha is the Sambhogakaya or physical form,
the enjoyment body, of the Buddha. Then Sakyamuni is the Nirmanakaya or
emanation body. There seem to be no hard and fast rules to these
identification and they changed constantly.
To the east of the Main Hall is the Judgement Hall in which graphic
paintings of the hells can be seen. To the west is the hall dedicated to
Avalokitesvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. The beautiful coffered
ceiling shows a traditional lotus flower decor.
Behind the Main Hall, there is a path which, after about 150 meters, leads
to Sambul-am, Hermitage of the Three Buddhas. There in the Thousand Buddhas
Hall are statues of Sakyamuni, Amitabha and the Medicine Buddha with
Bodhisattvas with cap-like diadems. There are shrines of the Big Dipper and
the Mountain God as well.
To the left of the Main Hall is the Hall of the Enlightened Emperor.
(Emperor is a name for the Buddha, the Awakened One who is lord over
himself..) Built in 1702 or 1703, the 160 meters high, double-roofed
building is one of the most magnificent in Korea. It is National Treasure
No. 67. The large high roof is a tribute to the high rank of the Buddha
(who came from a royal caste). Dating from the last century, the ceiling is
covered with carved and painted lotuses in mandala form and fine cosmic
patterns. The statues on the pedestal are, from the left, Avalokitesvara,
Amitabha, Samantabhadra, the Bodhisattva of Practice, Sakyamuni, Manjusri,
the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, Prabhutaratna, Gnanakara. This rich and rare
configuration combines traits of the Avatamsa School and the Zen School
with popular devotional Buddhism.
Originally the building was called Changyukjon. Legend tells that 100 monks
prayed for 100 days to build the hall. One night, an old monk dreamt that
Manjusri told him how to collect enough money. Each monk must wet his palm
and then touch flour. The one to whom the flour didn't stick was the right
person; this was Master Songnung. Manjusri instructed him to ask help from
the first person he met the next day. This person turned out to be a beggar
woman who, after vowing to be reborn in a rich family, died.
A few years later, Master Songnung met a princess who was very pleased to
see him. One of her hands had never opened and the master managed to open
it. On the palm was written Changyukjon. On seeing this, King Sukchong (r.
1674-1720) decided to help. When the hall was renamed, the king called it
Kakhwangjon. Originally the entire Avatamsaka Sutra was carved on granite
plates on the walls, but most of it was destroyed by the 16th century
invaders. Remaining fragments have been deposited below the statues.
In front of this hall there are two important monuments. One is the
six-meter high stone lantern, National Treasure No. 12. It is the biggest
lantern in Korea. The other is a lion pagoda which is Treasure No. 300.
Four sitting lions support a pagoda and each lion's face seems to express a
different emotion. Both of these stone objects date from 670.
Behind the hall, up a steep path, there is another lion pagoda. It also
dates from the 7th century and is National Treasure No. 35. Four crouching
lions on a relief-adorned pagoda carry an elegant granite reliquary, the
roof of which is layered downward in typical Shilla style. Between the
lions is the figure of a nun standing facing a stone lantern a few meters
away. She is the mother of the temple founder Yon-gi, who himself is said
to be crouching under the stone lantern opposite offering a cup of tea.
Hwaom-sa Temple, set in beautiful mountainous countryside, is a wonderful
place to go.
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