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10. A Treasure Trove of a Temple: Pusok-sa
Master Uisang was eagerly studying in China when a piece of secret
information was revealed to him. T'ang warlords were planning to attack,
conquer and annex Shilla, Uisang's beloved home land. The information came
to the young monk through the lovelorn daughter of a high ranking T'ang
official at whose home Uisang was staying. Uisang lost no time. He
immediately set out to warn his country men. Finding the master gone, the
daughter rushed after him, but was too late for the ship had already
weighed anchor and was disappearing over the horizon. In desperation the
girl flung herself into the sea and drowned. This supreme act of sacrifice
transformed her into a dragon which guarded over the ship all the way back
to Shilla. The attack averted, Uisang set himself to the task of searching
for the ideal temple site.
He found it on Mt. Ponhwang-san but the villagers refused to vacate the
chosen spot. Once again, the dragon appeared. Threatening to hurl a massive
rock on the village, the people fled and the dragon came crashing to the
earth and exhaled its last breath. This is the site of the Main Hall of
Pusok-sa today. To the west you can see a piece of rock, a small portion of
the one hurled by the dragon. Therefore Pusok-sa is called "Temple of the
Floating Stone." Uisang averted another Chinese invasion by performing a
special ceremony some years later.
From a geomancy point of view, Pusok-sa is very auspicious. In Korean, as
in Chinese, geomancy is called the study of "wind and water." The ideal
site should be encircled by mountains with specially high ridges on the
northern side extending to the east. These ridges are known as the Blue
Dragon. On the western side there should be some more ridges and these are
know as the White Tiger. In addition, Pusok-sa, constructed in 676 at the
orders of King Munmu, is a temple which shows the transition period between
those originally built in the plains during the period of the Three
Kingdoms and those built in the mountains during the Koryo and Choson
periods. The original temples were centered around a single pagoda--single
Main Hall pattern. The later temples consisted of a Main Hall and two
pagodas.
>From the beginning Uisang made the temple the headquarters of his
Avatamsaka sect. However, Korean Buddhism is never quite so clear-cut. The
temple also has all the trappings of one dedicated to Pure Land, to the
philosophy of the Western Paradise presided over by Amitabha Buddha.
Therefore the Main Hall, National Treasure No. 18, enshrines Amitabha.
Originally built in 676, the present structure dates from 1358, one of the
oldest wooden buildings in Korea. The architectural style is worth looking
at closely. The foundation is of granite. The columns supporting the roof
are fitted with brackets which seem complicated at first but which are
actually amazingly simple. The hipped-and-gabled roof is in perfect
proportion to the body of the building, giving the hall a unique feeling.
Inside, the statue sits in the west facing east because it is an Amitabha,
Buddha of the Western Paradise. It is the oldest clay statue in Korea,
National Treasure No. 45, and, although it is a Koryo statue, it reflects
faithfully the style of Shilla statues.
To the left of the Main Hall, at the bottom of a steep bluff, lies the
legendary floating stone. To the right of the stone is a three-storey
pagoda behind which is a pavilion dedicated to the Chinese girl who, in the
form of a dragon, helped Master Uisang. The portrait in the pavilion is of
the same girl.
Chosadang, National Treasure No. 19, a hall for keeping the portraits of
great masters, lies 100 meters to the northeast of the Main Hall. It was
built 150 years after the Main Hall. Originally, the building was decorated
with wall paintings but these have been moved to a protected place. The six
frescoes, four of guardians and two of Bodhisattvas, are National Treasure
No. 46 and they are the best existing examples of Koryo Period wall
painting.
Just under the eaves of Chosadang, there is a tree. It sprang from a stick
which Uisang put there on his way to India. He is reputed to have foretold
that if a tree grew it would never die. And so it is, ever green and
blooming after 1,300 years!
Pusok-sa has many treasures. The flagpole supports are Treasure No. 255;
the Koryo wood-blocks are Treasure No. 735; the pudo, conical stone objects
in which the remains of famous monks are kept; the two stone pagodas; and
the monument to Master Wonyung, a National Teacher of the Koryo Period, are
only some of the wonderful objects which have survived Korea's turbulent
history. In particular, the stone lantern, National Treasure No. 17 which
dates from the Unified Shilla Period, should be carefully looked at. A
masterpiece of proportion and design, the fine reliefs of lotus petals and
Bodhisattvas make it a precious gem.
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